WRCC, Inc. has a small supply of bolts and hangers in stock.
Unfortunately, there has been a slight increase in the cost of hardware.
For club members with a current paid subscription, the club will subsidize 50% of the cost of hardware.
All hardware must be used in the Wanaka Area Climbing Resource. New route information should be added to this web blog to include: Crag, Route Name, Route Description, Route Length, Number of Bolts, Who Cleaned and Bolted the Route, First Ascent person/s
Hardware Cost For Members:
Bolts $2.50
Hangers $2.00
Hangers w/Ring $5.00
28 January, 2010
Bolting Standard - Working Document
Materials Used in the Construction of Anchor Systems and Protection Points For Schist
Bolts
Tru-bolts with a shaft diameter of 10mm and a length of 90mm are the minimum standard. For chain and for lesser quality rock, 12mmx100mm is the recommended standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable for dry sites.
Chain
Chain with a gauge of 8mm is the minimum standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable. A galvanized bolt with galvanized chain is the recommended metal combination. It is desirable to not mix metal types in order to reduce potential corrosion.
D Shackle and Oval Malion
A gauge of 10mm is the minimum standard. A gauge of 12mm is the recommended standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable. It is desirable to not mix metal types in order to reduce potential corrosion.
Bolt Hanger
A fabricated hanger constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Bolt Hanger w/Ring
A fabricated hanger with a ring constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Fabricated Anchor Systems
Fabricated anchor systems constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Anchor Design Recommended Configurations
Bolts
Bolts should be placed perpendicular to the rock with a minimum distance of 200mm from each other, rock edges and cracks. Bolts should be placed in solid rock. Avoid large loose blocks and flakes that are semi-detached.
Two Chains
A length of approximately 250mm or eight (8) links on each chain is the minimum recommended. Longer chain is recommended to avoid obstructions or if the bolts are spaced more than 200mm apart. The chain link that fits over the bolt stud should not be levered against the nut or the rock; the rest of the chain links should have free movement.
One Chain and One Hanger w/Ring
A length of approximately 250mm or eight (8) links on the chain is the minimum recommended. The chain link that fits over the bolt stud should not be levered against the nut or the rock; the rest of the chain links should have free movement. The hanger with ring is placed below the chain vertically so that the ring and the bottom chain link are equalised.
(2x) Two - Bolt Hanger w/Ring
Ideally, the hangers are placed on a horizontal plane in relation to each other with no rock obstruction between them. Each ring should have free movement and be positioned so that they stay perpendicular to the rock when loaded.
Fabricated Anchor System
Fabricated anchor systems should be installed to manufacturer specifications.
Bolts
Tru-bolts with a shaft diameter of 10mm and a length of 90mm are the minimum standard. For chain and for lesser quality rock, 12mmx100mm is the recommended standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable for dry sites.
Chain
Chain with a gauge of 8mm is the minimum standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable. A galvanized bolt with galvanized chain is the recommended metal combination. It is desirable to not mix metal types in order to reduce potential corrosion.
D Shackle and Oval Malion
A gauge of 10mm is the minimum standard. A gauge of 12mm is the recommended standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable. It is desirable to not mix metal types in order to reduce potential corrosion.
Bolt Hanger
A fabricated hanger constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Bolt Hanger w/Ring
A fabricated hanger with a ring constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Fabricated Anchor Systems
Fabricated anchor systems constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Anchor Design Recommended Configurations
Bolts
Bolts should be placed perpendicular to the rock with a minimum distance of 200mm from each other, rock edges and cracks. Bolts should be placed in solid rock. Avoid large loose blocks and flakes that are semi-detached.
Two Chains
A length of approximately 250mm or eight (8) links on each chain is the minimum recommended. Longer chain is recommended to avoid obstructions or if the bolts are spaced more than 200mm apart. The chain link that fits over the bolt stud should not be levered against the nut or the rock; the rest of the chain links should have free movement.
One Chain and One Hanger w/Ring
A length of approximately 250mm or eight (8) links on the chain is the minimum recommended. The chain link that fits over the bolt stud should not be levered against the nut or the rock; the rest of the chain links should have free movement. The hanger with ring is placed below the chain vertically so that the ring and the bottom chain link are equalised.
(2x) Two - Bolt Hanger w/Ring
Ideally, the hangers are placed on a horizontal plane in relation to each other with no rock obstruction between them. Each ring should have free movement and be positioned so that they stay perpendicular to the rock when loaded.
Fabricated Anchor System
Fabricated anchor systems should be installed to manufacturer specifications.
DoC - Memorandum Of Understanding
WRCC, Inc. has entered into a Memorandum Of Understanding with Department of Conservation.
I have listed below a few of the most important points:
- Ensure that the development of new rock climbing sites, including requiring the use of fixed protection (i.e. rock bolts, piton and anchor chains), have approval from the Area Manager, Wanaka Area Office, prior to any work taking place. A new site was seen as a place where no routes or crags presently exist/have been established. A new route that is between 2 existing routes or within a reasonable/practical distanceon the same rock face was not seen as a new area/site in relation to this requirement.
-The WRCC, Inc and its members should comply with the code of practice developed for bolting and developing climbs as required by the department (refer Wanaka Bolting Standard – Schedule 2), in the carrying out of any work. It is acknowledged that the Wanaka Bolting Standard may be revised during the life of this agreement.
- Ensure that discussions take place with the department prior to club members cutting any vegetation from around new potential sites or significant vegetation clearance on/to existing sites. Maintenance of the existing access track by members to clear back yearly growth using handtools (pruner, hedge cutter) does not required approval.
- The WRCC, Inc will take reasonable steps to ensure the safety of its members and any other volunteers participating in work organised by the group.
I have listed below a few of the most important points:
- Ensure that the development of new rock climbing sites, including requiring the use of fixed protection (i.e. rock bolts, piton and anchor chains), have approval from the Area Manager, Wanaka Area Office, prior to any work taking place. A new site was seen as a place where no routes or crags presently exist/have been established. A new route that is between 2 existing routes or within a reasonable/practical distanceon the same rock face was not seen as a new area/site in relation to this requirement.
-The WRCC, Inc and its members should comply with the code of practice developed for bolting and developing climbs as required by the department (refer Wanaka Bolting Standard – Schedule 2), in the carrying out of any work. It is acknowledged that the Wanaka Bolting Standard may be revised during the life of this agreement.
- Ensure that discussions take place with the department prior to club members cutting any vegetation from around new potential sites or significant vegetation clearance on/to existing sites. Maintenance of the existing access track by members to clear back yearly growth using handtools (pruner, hedge cutter) does not required approval.
- The WRCC, Inc will take reasonable steps to ensure the safety of its members and any other volunteers participating in work organised by the group.
09 January, 2010
Hot Off The Press
The Complete Guide to Rock Climbing in Wanaka is available NOW!
Buy it from your favorite retailer or join the club and get your guide sent to you through the post.
Send your details and $42.50 (subs, book and postage) to:
WRCC - Secretary
PO Box 427
Wanaka
Buy it from your favorite retailer or join the club and get your guide sent to you through the post.
Send your details and $42.50 (subs, book and postage) to:
WRCC - Secretary
PO Box 427
Wanaka
New Name and New Look
The Wanaka Rock Climbing Club blog site needed to be updated and revamped now that a new guide book has printed for 2010.
I have changed the name from routinginwanaka to wanakarockclimbingclub to better reflect the idea that we use this blog site not only for new route information but also to communicate club activity.
Give us your feedback.
I have changed the name from routinginwanaka to wanakarockclimbingclub to better reflect the idea that we use this blog site not only for new route information but also to communicate club activity.
Give us your feedback.
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