I am entering this post on behalf of travelling climbers, Alex Wilkinson & Kathryn Cooper who bolted a new line between Sunny Mondays and Sweet Sixteen with guideance from Glen E.
The route has pretty much been wet since just after they started so I am not sure whether or not the route has been climbed or not. They mentioned that they would confirm the grade when the route dries out, hmmmm.
In any case, they have given the route a name "The Deadline" and a grade of 26+.
24 August, 2010
01 April, 2010
Delta View - New Routes
Excellent cliff with superb steep rock climbing and amazing views.
Morning Sun, Afternoon and Evening Shade
Walk to the Lake Wanaka viewpoint at Diamond Lake Area
Climbs from Left to Right
New Horizon Grade 22 **, 9 bolts, 22m
Crack and face climbing through steep bulges - Greg Johnston, Glen Einam 2010
Ziga Zaga Grade 22 *, 8 bolts, 20m
Crack and face climbing through a steep bulge - Greg Johnston, Glen Einam 2010
Project - Greg Johnston
Corner crack, bulge and face climb
Was He Pushed? Grade 21 ***
Existing Route for reference
Did He Trip? Grade 21 **, 6 bolts, 18m
Steep face climbing up black rock on good holds- Greg Johnston, Glen Einam 2010
Jump Start Grade 18 *, 8 bolts, 20m
Crack and face climbing - Glen Einam, Greg Johnston 2010
22 March, 2010
Crackhouse New Route
Left to Right
Karearea Crack
Location Reference - dotted line
Crack Under Pressure, Grade 24 *, 5 bolts, 15-20m
Greg Johnston, Murray Ball 2010
Face climbing up overhanging rock on substantial holds.
13 March, 2010
Rumour Mill - New Routes
From Left to Right:
New Route - short route up left side of pillar grade 17/18, details to be supplied - Ed Liddle '10
New Route - short route up pillar grade 18/19, details to be supplied - Bryan Moore '10
Project - unknown
After Bush - existing route for reference
Whodunnit? - Grade 16, 25m, 10 bolts - Greg Johnston '10
This route was an obvious project until unknown Scumbags stole my mana, 3 quickdraws and a biner. The first bolt hanger was removed to keep people off, but it didn't work. Free booty halfway up the climb lured the ignorant perpetrators up the dirty friable rock. The route is impossible to clean without a fixed rope or, in this case, directional aids. Adding insult and cheek to my drama, the proud meat-sacks wrote in chalk their proposed over-grade (18) with stars next to the bolt stud. The route would be a classic for the grade if wasn't dirty and tainted. My energy is gone forever but I would like my kit back. Maybe the offenders will front up, return my stolen gear and finish cleaning the climb.
New Route - short route off pedestal grade 16/17, details to be supplied
He Said She Said - Grade 16 **, 15m, 7 bolts
Extension Grade 27, 5m, 2 bolts - Greg Johnston '10
Face climb on excellent textured rock angling left then up.
The extension turns the overhanging bulge.
New Route - short face climb grade 16/17, details to be supplied
Credit Crunch - existing route for reference
Project - Steep climb on white rock - Murray Ball
07 February, 2010
Sharon Stone - New Routes
Total Recall Grade 19 **, 29m, 11 bolts
(Situated between Athletic Blonde and Who's Bunny?)
Face climbing up a steep and direct line on good holds - Greg Johnston '10
Forgive And Forget Grade 24 ***, 18m, 9 bolts
(Shares anchor with Need To Unwind)
Steep face climbing on excellent textured rock - Greg Johnston '10
28 January, 2010
Bolts and Hangers In Stock
WRCC, Inc. has a small supply of bolts and hangers in stock.
Unfortunately, there has been a slight increase in the cost of hardware.
For club members with a current paid subscription, the club will subsidize 50% of the cost of hardware.
All hardware must be used in the Wanaka Area Climbing Resource. New route information should be added to this web blog to include: Crag, Route Name, Route Description, Route Length, Number of Bolts, Who Cleaned and Bolted the Route, First Ascent person/s
Hardware Cost For Members:
Bolts $2.50
Hangers $2.00
Hangers w/Ring $5.00
Unfortunately, there has been a slight increase in the cost of hardware.
For club members with a current paid subscription, the club will subsidize 50% of the cost of hardware.
All hardware must be used in the Wanaka Area Climbing Resource. New route information should be added to this web blog to include: Crag, Route Name, Route Description, Route Length, Number of Bolts, Who Cleaned and Bolted the Route, First Ascent person/s
Hardware Cost For Members:
Bolts $2.50
Hangers $2.00
Hangers w/Ring $5.00
Bolting Standard - Working Document
Materials Used in the Construction of Anchor Systems and Protection Points For Schist
Bolts
Tru-bolts with a shaft diameter of 10mm and a length of 90mm are the minimum standard. For chain and for lesser quality rock, 12mmx100mm is the recommended standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable for dry sites.
Chain
Chain with a gauge of 8mm is the minimum standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable. A galvanized bolt with galvanized chain is the recommended metal combination. It is desirable to not mix metal types in order to reduce potential corrosion.
D Shackle and Oval Malion
A gauge of 10mm is the minimum standard. A gauge of 12mm is the recommended standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable. It is desirable to not mix metal types in order to reduce potential corrosion.
Bolt Hanger
A fabricated hanger constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Bolt Hanger w/Ring
A fabricated hanger with a ring constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Fabricated Anchor Systems
Fabricated anchor systems constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Anchor Design Recommended Configurations
Bolts
Bolts should be placed perpendicular to the rock with a minimum distance of 200mm from each other, rock edges and cracks. Bolts should be placed in solid rock. Avoid large loose blocks and flakes that are semi-detached.
Two Chains
A length of approximately 250mm or eight (8) links on each chain is the minimum recommended. Longer chain is recommended to avoid obstructions or if the bolts are spaced more than 200mm apart. The chain link that fits over the bolt stud should not be levered against the nut or the rock; the rest of the chain links should have free movement.
One Chain and One Hanger w/Ring
A length of approximately 250mm or eight (8) links on the chain is the minimum recommended. The chain link that fits over the bolt stud should not be levered against the nut or the rock; the rest of the chain links should have free movement. The hanger with ring is placed below the chain vertically so that the ring and the bottom chain link are equalised.
(2x) Two - Bolt Hanger w/Ring
Ideally, the hangers are placed on a horizontal plane in relation to each other with no rock obstruction between them. Each ring should have free movement and be positioned so that they stay perpendicular to the rock when loaded.
Fabricated Anchor System
Fabricated anchor systems should be installed to manufacturer specifications.
Bolts
Tru-bolts with a shaft diameter of 10mm and a length of 90mm are the minimum standard. For chain and for lesser quality rock, 12mmx100mm is the recommended standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable for dry sites.
Chain
Chain with a gauge of 8mm is the minimum standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable. A galvanized bolt with galvanized chain is the recommended metal combination. It is desirable to not mix metal types in order to reduce potential corrosion.
D Shackle and Oval Malion
A gauge of 10mm is the minimum standard. A gauge of 12mm is the recommended standard. Stainless steel is preferred; galvanized coating is acceptable. It is desirable to not mix metal types in order to reduce potential corrosion.
Bolt Hanger
A fabricated hanger constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Bolt Hanger w/Ring
A fabricated hanger with a ring constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Fabricated Anchor Systems
Fabricated anchor systems constructed with stainless steel and strength rated is the minimum standard.
Anchor Design Recommended Configurations
Bolts
Bolts should be placed perpendicular to the rock with a minimum distance of 200mm from each other, rock edges and cracks. Bolts should be placed in solid rock. Avoid large loose blocks and flakes that are semi-detached.
Two Chains
A length of approximately 250mm or eight (8) links on each chain is the minimum recommended. Longer chain is recommended to avoid obstructions or if the bolts are spaced more than 200mm apart. The chain link that fits over the bolt stud should not be levered against the nut or the rock; the rest of the chain links should have free movement.
One Chain and One Hanger w/Ring
A length of approximately 250mm or eight (8) links on the chain is the minimum recommended. The chain link that fits over the bolt stud should not be levered against the nut or the rock; the rest of the chain links should have free movement. The hanger with ring is placed below the chain vertically so that the ring and the bottom chain link are equalised.
(2x) Two - Bolt Hanger w/Ring
Ideally, the hangers are placed on a horizontal plane in relation to each other with no rock obstruction between them. Each ring should have free movement and be positioned so that they stay perpendicular to the rock when loaded.
Fabricated Anchor System
Fabricated anchor systems should be installed to manufacturer specifications.
DoC - Memorandum Of Understanding
WRCC, Inc. has entered into a Memorandum Of Understanding with Department of Conservation.
I have listed below a few of the most important points:
- Ensure that the development of new rock climbing sites, including requiring the use of fixed protection (i.e. rock bolts, piton and anchor chains), have approval from the Area Manager, Wanaka Area Office, prior to any work taking place. A new site was seen as a place where no routes or crags presently exist/have been established. A new route that is between 2 existing routes or within a reasonable/practical distanceon the same rock face was not seen as a new area/site in relation to this requirement.
-The WRCC, Inc and its members should comply with the code of practice developed for bolting and developing climbs as required by the department (refer Wanaka Bolting Standard – Schedule 2), in the carrying out of any work. It is acknowledged that the Wanaka Bolting Standard may be revised during the life of this agreement.
- Ensure that discussions take place with the department prior to club members cutting any vegetation from around new potential sites or significant vegetation clearance on/to existing sites. Maintenance of the existing access track by members to clear back yearly growth using handtools (pruner, hedge cutter) does not required approval.
- The WRCC, Inc will take reasonable steps to ensure the safety of its members and any other volunteers participating in work organised by the group.
I have listed below a few of the most important points:
- Ensure that the development of new rock climbing sites, including requiring the use of fixed protection (i.e. rock bolts, piton and anchor chains), have approval from the Area Manager, Wanaka Area Office, prior to any work taking place. A new site was seen as a place where no routes or crags presently exist/have been established. A new route that is between 2 existing routes or within a reasonable/practical distanceon the same rock face was not seen as a new area/site in relation to this requirement.
-The WRCC, Inc and its members should comply with the code of practice developed for bolting and developing climbs as required by the department (refer Wanaka Bolting Standard – Schedule 2), in the carrying out of any work. It is acknowledged that the Wanaka Bolting Standard may be revised during the life of this agreement.
- Ensure that discussions take place with the department prior to club members cutting any vegetation from around new potential sites or significant vegetation clearance on/to existing sites. Maintenance of the existing access track by members to clear back yearly growth using handtools (pruner, hedge cutter) does not required approval.
- The WRCC, Inc will take reasonable steps to ensure the safety of its members and any other volunteers participating in work organised by the group.
09 January, 2010
Hot Off The Press
The Complete Guide to Rock Climbing in Wanaka is available NOW!
Buy it from your favorite retailer or join the club and get your guide sent to you through the post.
Send your details and $42.50 (subs, book and postage) to:
WRCC - Secretary
PO Box 427
Wanaka
Buy it from your favorite retailer or join the club and get your guide sent to you through the post.
Send your details and $42.50 (subs, book and postage) to:
WRCC - Secretary
PO Box 427
Wanaka
New Name and New Look
The Wanaka Rock Climbing Club blog site needed to be updated and revamped now that a new guide book has printed for 2010.
I have changed the name from routinginwanaka to wanakarockclimbingclub to better reflect the idea that we use this blog site not only for new route information but also to communicate club activity.
Give us your feedback.
I have changed the name from routinginwanaka to wanakarockclimbingclub to better reflect the idea that we use this blog site not only for new route information but also to communicate club activity.
Give us your feedback.
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